Sir Terence Conran's mould breaking Gastrodome restaurants of the Nineties brought much that was good and, alas much that was not so good to the London dining scene. It was Tel's establishments that lifted London's standard service charge from the traditional 10 per cent to the now ubiquitous 12.5 per cent. Word is that he wanted to go for 15 per cent but decided the punters would revolt and chose 12.5 per cent as a compromise. Whatever.

So there is a nice dollop of irony - which goes very well with humble pie I'm told - in his successor's announcement that the former Conran chain, now known as D&D London, is to axe service charges altogether. 

It would be nice to think others will follow but there are good and complex reasons -  the minimum wage and chip and pin among others -  why the "optional" service charge automatically added to bills has become embedded as the London way of handling the tip.

Most restaurant goers will welcome this change from D&D. It is quite right that diners should be able to show their appreciation for outstanding service, which makes a huge difference to the overall enjoyment of an experience that costs us ever more in London. Let's face it, service is still dire in many London restaurants where there is really no excuse.