Plonk: There goes Oddbins
Unlike my colleage Andrew Neather - who admittedly does know a lot more about the subject than me, I am shedding a little winey tear for poor old Oddbins today. You have to be of a certain age - definitely over 45 - to remember the tragically inadequate wine landscape of Britain before this quirky retailer rocked up the High Street in the Eighties.
Affordable wine came generally from dreary "offys" or corner shops - the supermarkets were not really terribly interested then - and was invariable French, Spanish or Italian and awful. Plonk really was plonk, often only just drinkable. In the pubs, if you got a choice of badly kept generic red and white you were doing well.
Oddbins, with its warehouse-style stripped pine interiors, dramatic Ralph Steadman designed graphics, irreverent yet knowledgable staff, and most importantly, immensely wider choice of wine, changed everything. They opened the British consumers' eyes to the previously derided New World producers, particularly Australia, ushering in a new era of those oakey yellow chardonnays that were the taste of the Eighties. Things have moved on a bit now and the chardonnay age has been and gone. But it was the first time that ordinary wine drinkers started talking in terms of a grape variety rather than just a colour. And that is largely thanks to Oddbins. It is a measure of the revolution in tastes since then that France is now only the fourth biggest supplier of wine to Britain.
It never made much money but was probably doomed from the moment the chain was taken over by French wine giant Castel in 2001. The French decided they "knew best" about what the British punter wanted. Wrong. The acquisition was a disaster and destroyed much that was loved about Oddbins.
I have to admit my visits to Oddbins are few and far between now. But there are few retailers that can claim to have single handedly changed Britain substantially for the better. Oddbins is one of them. It will be missed.


